At the entrance to Marseille’s Old Port, two fortified sites face each other across the water. Fort Saint-Jean occupies the northern side; Fort Saint-
A famous musical address can look surprisingly ordinary. A compact recording building, a residential house and a former industrial façade do not explain their importance through
Chicago’s tall buildings do not speak with one architectural voice. A dark masonry wall, a pair of rounded concrete towers and a glass building edged
The golden figure above Marseille is familiar long before you reach its hill. It appears beyond the boats, between buildings and over the everyday movement of
Chicago’s World’s Columbian Exposition of 1893 has a powerful afterlife in photographs: pale monumental buildings, water, bridges and carefully arranged views. Visit Jackson Park
A good Marseille trip needs a few firm decisions, then room to enjoy the city. An island crossing, access to Sugiton, an architecture tour and a
Chicago’s Great Fire is often reduced to two images: a cow beside a lamp and a small stone tower standing amid destruction. Neither image is
On a hot Marseille day, change the rhythm before adding more places. Give the Old Port a short morning walk, choose one genuinely available indoor museum
From the Riverwalk, the Chicago River can look like an elegant foreground for the city: water, bridges, boats and tall buildings. One piece of history changes
Choose a Monday-to-Saturday morning for a compact Marseille walk with two different markets. Begin at the fish stalls on Quai de la Fraternité, look
You have chosen the Chicago museums you want to visit. The next task is distributing them across the trip so the city does not become a
A timed ticket can give a Chicago day a clear center. It becomes a problem when the rest of the itinerary is built as though reaching
